Design Background // I originally came from an art background studying at Prior’s Field school and Godalming college. I then took an art foundation at Brighton where i was able to have a taster of art, graphics, illustration, 3D/sculpture and fashion. I decided to peruse fashion and my course has offered many competitions one of which was a knitwear bursary which i was selected for but unfortunately was not successful. i also recently received the British Fashion Council award.
What was the concept behind your collection // My Concept came from ‘New World Transparent Specimens’ Japanese artist Iori Tomita. They were jared skeletons that had been injected with bright coloured ink. I took this idea of the specimen being encased but still clearly visible and related it to my use of fabrics and textile applications. using lots of layered sheer fabrics and creating and deconstructing my own knitted fabrics to create this idea of sheer encasing of the body.
Did you design your collection with a particular person in your mind // I didn’t have a specific person in mind more of a type of person. Some one in their 20′s who’s has an alternative lifestyle and is relaxed and some what casual in what they where but still kitsch and with an edge.
What machinery did you use for your collection// I used a combination of hand knitting and crochet as well as a domestic brother knitting machines for all my machine knit. All my woven pieces where done on industrial sunstar/ brother sewing machines.
What techniques did you use // I used a combination of techniques; short row, crochet, hand knit including knit, pearl, eyelets and lace stitch. I also deconstructed and reconstructed recycled knitwear from vintage shops, as well as creating new surface textures in goat hair by shaving, cutting and crimping.
Where do you get inspiration from // I always have a strong concept behind all my work which has come from my art background, being inspired by new and unusual artist or exhibitions to stimulate new ideas for creating textures, layers and colours with in fashion.
What inspired your graduate collection // The specimen from the "new world transparent specimens’ inspired my collection and gave me the idea for using butterflies for my accessory pieces. I wanted to keep a direct link from my research without being too literal or cheesy. I also wanted them to look like they where almost walking art encased in frames and perspex to emulate the jarred specimens from the exhibition.
Do you think you’ll make another collection // I would love to make another collection but this would depend on me being able to fund another collection and having the time depending on future jobs.
What would you like to see yourself doing in 5 years time// I would love to be in a successful knitwear design team, designing and creating knitwear fabrics.
What made you pursue knitwear // Because of my art background I’ve always been very creative and hands on and on our course you are introduced to knitwear in your first year and i just took to it and really enjoyed creating my own fabrics and working with different colours and textures. I then carried on through out the course experimenting and developing my skills in knitwear.
If you had no limitations what would be your dream job // To have my own knitwear/fashion label around the world.
Why did you choose to go to your university // I chose my university for the course as it allows you to explore the textile side of fashion and be experimental and creative with what you do. What do you think of your course // I really enjoyed it and it pushed me extremely hard and i have learnt a huge amount over the three years and it was all worth the long days and stressful nights!!!
Which of your classmates collections did you love // I love aspects of all my classmates collections but my 2 favourite would be Emily Andrews for her wacky designs and intense use of textile applications and Jonathan Jepson for his use of combining different textured fabrics and his over the top crystallising!
Which was the most difficult garment to make out of your collection // I wouldn’t say one was more difficult than the other as all my knitwear was very time consuming but if i had to pick one it would probably of been the orange knitted body suit due to the use of short row and the time it took.
Which piece out of your collection took the longest to make // My crochet body suit took 3 weeks in total which i had sent out.
What have your highest and lowest points been during your degree // My highest point of my degree was defiantly being in Graduate Fashion Week and my lowest point would have been during our bootcamp. This is where I had to recreate one of clare toughs designs in a week (pattern cut, toile and make). This was an incredibly tough week that I didn’t get a lot of sleep during but it did however show me what I could actually achieve in a week when I thought it would have been impossible.
What are you’re plans for your career after graduation // My plans for now are to apply for internships and work placements within the fashion and knit industry.
What advice would you give to students going into their final year // Be prepared to work hard and long hours and it will pay off!
What do you wish you had known at the start of university // I don’t think i would have wanted to know anything because it might off put me off at that age and I wouldn’t have achieved what I have, but I’ve always known it was going to be hard work if I wanted to do well.
Describe your design signature in 3 words // Bold, textured and Deconstructed.
www.shabiradowley.co.uk
Shabiradowley@hotmail.com
07932658047
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