Showing posts with label cutwork. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cutwork. Show all posts

Monday, 4 March 2013

All Mapped Out:
>> Isabelle OC beat me to her mapped out post but the origin is the same.  My faithful Acne scarf printed with an old map of Stockholm on it has served me well in the printed map front.  The fresh influx of printed map activity from Carven's resort collection has been tempting enough but when paired with captivating birds of flight made out of maps or pleated map dresses seen at The First Cut paper art exhibition, it only exacerbates the need to get some new mapped out garments in my life.
Claire Brewster's intricately cut-out vintage map birds made me wish I was the sort of person that put away money for a rainy day to buy an extravagant piece of art.  Brewster creates movement and breathes life into old maps and atlases with incisions, mimicking birds in flight, swarms of insects or tropical plants.  They're often installed standing away from the wall or foundation board so that they cast complicated shadows that make the cut-outs look like they're fluttering about on the walls.  I've got my eye on any one of the London map pieces by Brewster to start my spiralling downfall towards being one of those people who say "Oh, I'm a collector..."

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Carven is no stranger to maps printed on garments.  Guillaume Henry's girl has always tended to be a bookish creature, travelling in her head by flipping through atlases.  Last summer she was skipping around a bright chartreuse-tinged map of Maine.  This time round, she's closer to her home turf, bounding about an old engraving of Paris.  Now's the time to say cheesy French phrases like "Ooohhh...trés jolie!"  There's no way you can't feel that old cartography printed on to cute blazers, A-line skirts and blouses is anything but jolly/jolie.  The temptation would be to buy the whole lot and skip around the streets of you guessed it, Pareeeee...
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Carven printed jacket, skirt and wedges from Matches Fashion, Carven printed dress and shirt from Net a Porter.  
Elisabeth Lecourt is perhaps the most common answer on Google if you search for "map dress".  Her famous series "Les robes géographiques" reach almost iconic levels, when it comes to being blogged and reblogged, so much so that I suspect some people are looking at these flat pleated dresses and wondering whether they're actual wearable garments.  It would be criminal to leave Lecourt out in an exhibition about artists who cut, sculpt and manipulate paper.
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Christopher Raeburn made some incredible new strides in his Deploy/Flight S/S 13 collection.  The signature lightweight macs and nylon outerwear is injected with femininity seen in the trapped lace parkas and a delicate looking ripstock lace looking like a camouflage pattern.  The most impressive part of the collection though was the "Remade" element, which is always present in Raeburn's design ethos.  Raeburn came across a cache of old 1950s military escape maps that were printed on lightweight silk so that they wouldn't get destroyed in the rain.  Raeburn didn't even have to transfer any print to a wearable fabric as they were already printed out for him, ready to make playsuits, bomber jackets and dresses.  Up close, it's fascinating to make out the physical geography on the maps but from afar, it's a beautiful print that looks anything but upcycled or reused.  


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This 1970s vintage Chloe dress has been hanging around the Merchant Archive website for a while.  What with their starry clientale these days with fans such as Florence "and the Machines" Welch, it's surprising that there's anything left to be honest.  I might falter and give in to this dress anytime soon though if nobody shares my love of this abstracted colourful globe pattern.


Chris Kenny's piece Capella is based on a galaxy formation of found map pieces.  For him it's "a fetishistic accumulation of data" - an observation of human presence in a world divided up by unnatural territorial borders.
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Finally, trusty Etsy (which has somehow become more interesting than eBay in terms of unique pieces...) has a mapped out specimen, printed with the highway routes of USA and set into a diagonal window pane shift dress.

The Cutting (& Stitching) Edge – Maxine Sutton

The Cutting (& Stitching) Edge – Maxine Sutton:

Maxine Sutton is a textile designer from Margate, England.
Maxine Sutton - Hey Cat - embroidered textile artwork
“If one were to imagine a workshop household, one would envision a situation where most, if not all things were made in a more imaginative and beautiful way than in quotidian life” - Mark Rosenthal
I love the idea of the workshop household described by Mark Rosenthal, and believe in the importance of our interaction with materials, texture, pattern, and the handmade.The handmade object creates layers of significance and forms a part of personal and family narratives, making links and connections through generations.
Maxine Sutton - Little Red Bird - embroidered textile artwork
“My work continues to explore the interplay between screen-printed and embroidered textures, colour, mark, drawn and stitched lines. Often playing with imagery and ideas springing from our relationship with familiar domestic objects, everyday pastimes, the meaning of ‘home’ and home-making activities. Abstract and semi-figurative forms combined with pattern and texture present an ambiguous narrative.
Maxine Sutton - Marjory - embroidered tea cosy
Using Irish machine, and hand embroidery I employ a combination of traditional techniques, such as appliqué  patchwork, needle-punch and screen print. Forms, are hand drawn, paper cut, found or photographic; layered and collaged with abstract and semi figurative appliquéd, needle-punched and printed imagery. Embroidered lines and densely embroidered areas create further layers of texture and interest.”
Maxine Sutton - Cuckoo - embroidered textile artwork
I like a good bit of mixed up textile work and Maxine’s work is a great example. Quirky and wistful, the combination of machine embroidery, appliqué and screen printing is very contemporary and quite charming.
Maxine Sutton - Sad Bird - embroidered textile artwork
Visit Maxine’s website to see more of her work, including paper collage work, and check out her shop for lovely home furnishings!
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The Cutting & Stitching Edge is brought to you in association with PUSH: Stitchery, the must-have embroidered art book by Mr X Stitch !

Friday, 11 January 2013

Bubble and Speaking

Bubble and Speaking:
>> Some of you may have seen that I've started to pen a column for the much-respected (and rightly so),the Business of Fashion entitled Bubble and Speak (geddit, geddit?)  I'm not sure who to credit for that bit of clever punnery but it makes for a catchy title for a column about introducing young designers.  For my first bit of Bubble and Speaking, I talked up the knitwear duo Leutton Postle aka Jenny Postle and Sam Leutton, who caught my attention ever since Jenny Postle's Central Saint Martins graduate MA collection in 2011.
During the summer, whilst the duo were working on their S/S 13 collection, which they showed as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout in September's London Fashion Week, I went to visit their wonderful cavernous studio.  It was a hive of knit trick activity.  I've stored up all these photos of a real work in progress, which don't necessarily relate to the final S/S 13 collection that was shown.  Ideas get scrapped.  Decisions change.  Directions can swerve in the course of the build-up to the final collection.  However, these pics do show that Leutton and Postle are constantly experimenting with a combination of hand and machine knit techniques, incorporating different yarns together as well as materials.  When I went to visit, they were fixated by hammer beads, the sort that you meld together into different formations when you're a kid.  A lot of these experimental samples didn't make it into the final collection.  It's hardly a wasted effort though.  What didn't work this time round is kept in Leutton and Postle's big basket of sample squares and could potentially be bought out for future collections.  The sketches shown here were also initial ideas for S/S 13 that were then scrapped.  To me they look like fertile ideas to pursue later down the line.  Leutton Postle are evidently in the fortunate position of having excessive creative output, which they can then edit down when it comes to the final collection.
They even had time to knit a wonderful baby blanket in anticipation of the birth of Mary Portas and Melanie Rickey's baby (Rickey gave birth in September).  Read the full article on Business of Fashion to find out more about this knitwear duo.  Suffice to say, I believe them when they say there's so much more experimentation to come.







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-scarfs-

-scarfs-:







inspiration board



textiliri

textiliri:
my new art textile all made from hand dyed silk cut-outs
TextileLiri group exhibition | Periscope gallery
curator Ayala Raz.





Papercutpile 2

Papercutpile 2:
Laser cut paper from Swoon Konbit Kickstarter.

Tuesday, 9 October 2012

The Touch of Tai

The Touch of Tai:
 London-based designer Steven Tai 's S/S 13 collection, centred around bookish types enjoying all the pleasures of a library.  The layers refer to pages in a book as do the woven embossed texture, resembling papyrus.  The shredded crepe with embroidered fish embedded underneath the threads is a potently sweet and craft-based gesture from Tai.  Every rough edge, awkward silhouette and deceptive tears and gaps in the fabric have a geekish obssessive quality to it as you look up close and it all looks even more complicated than at first glance.  

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The neural map is not the territory of consciousness.

The neural map is not the territory of consciousness.:












External Stimuli : Shannon Rankin, The Map is not the Territory